How to chose a proper clone!

Let’s face it, most of us buy clones! From wanting to try before we buy, a scarce supply, or simply not wanting to spend too much on an atty, we all have our reasons!

The question most often asked about clones is “Which clone of X is the best?”.

I’ve decided to compile a list of my personal preferences when purchasing a clone.


Metal used: 316 SS > 304 SS > SS

Often we find specifications for the metal used to create the clone. This is important, as we do not want our atomizer to rust or corrode!

The fast summary is: 316SS > 304SS > SS .

316 Stainless Steel: This is the best stainless steel grade for a clone. Also called marine grade stainless or surgical grade stainless, it provides better corrosion resistance than the other stainless steels used to make atomizers. This is due to the addition of 2-3% molybdenum. These are usually a little bit more expensive than the others.

304 Stainless Steel: If 316 is not available, the next best is 304 stainless steel. It also has corrosion resistance, but less than 316 since it does not contain molybdenum. These will usually be cheaper than the 316 counterpart, but more expensive than the plain stainless steel ones.

Stainless Steel: If only stainless steel is written, it will be hit or miss! While there is a chance it could be 304 or 316, it can also be very low grade stainless steel. These are atomizers that can easily rust and give out a weird metallic taste. These will usually be the cheapest clones available.


Copper inside the chamber: NOPE!

Some atomizers have a copper center post or copper top caps. Some authentics even have it (ex: Kennedy RDA). This is a big no-no for me!

Copper is a metal that easily oxidizes, patinas and is known to be toxic in certain dosage.

Our atomizer chamber is constantly being heated up then cooled down, with a constant flow of juice (alkaline or acidic) inside it.

This means our chamber is literally a catalyst for the oxidation/patina of the copper. I am not fond of this idea at all! Knowing an external reaction not related to my evaporation of e-liquid is taking place and I could be inhaling the results of it does not sit well with me!

It is important to note that I am not a chemist, so my logic could be wrong here, but why in the world would I want to test this when I can replace the copper with 304/316 stainless steel and just forget about it?

Back in the early days of mechanical mods, people praised the use of a copper center post to provide better conductivity. While it is true that copper conducts electricity better than stainless steel, the advancements in regulated mods have made this a non-issue.


Would you vape this??
Would you vape from this??


Peek Insulators: Good but not a necessity!

An insulator is a substance that resists electricity. It is used to segregate our positive and negative connection in the atomizer to make sure they only connect at the coil. Insulators can be made of glass, ceramic, plastic and many other substances. We mostly find plastic insulators in our atomizers, as they are cheap and malleable.

It is important for the insulators in our atomizer to be able to withstand heat, as we are constantly generating heat from our coil. If the insulators were to melt, we would most definitely have a short as the positive and negative would be touching each other before the coil.

PEEK insulators provide high temperature resistance (up to 250C/482F) and are the ideal plastic insulators to use for our atomizers. Unfortunately they are more expensive than regular plastic insulators.

Thankfully, unless we are vaping at extremely high wattage (100+W), a regular plastic insulator will do the job!

I have more than 50 atomizers in my arsenal and have only managed to semi-melt 1 cheap plastic insulator. I was also at fault, having the atomizer fire button constantly being pressed/released for 20+ minutes (in car cup holder in a weird position).

At the end of the day, PEEK is preferred, but should not be a deal breaker! This also applies to delrin, ultem, or any other insulating material presented in the marketing of the product!


A PEEK insulator
A PEEK insulator


Clone brands: Reviews are more important!

We see them everywhere: Tobecco, Ehpro, Hcigar, SXK, Ivogo…

These companies have very small factories (if any) and subcontract their work/orders from other manufacturers. The difference is *usually* in the quality control of the batches. I say usually because sometimes getting your dollar is more important to them (looking at you Hcigar and Wotofo!!!)

For example, Hcigar used SGS for quality control. The clone manufacturer would transfer the goods to SGS for inspection, and if passed they are branded Hcigar. This is one of the reasons why branded clones are more expensive, and sometimes are exactly the same as the 5$ ones on FT. This does not necessarily mean the quality is better! Hcigar quality went down the drain before they stopped selling clones!

Unfortunately there is no clone brand that didn’t drop the ball. It is a roller coaster ride. This is where reviews come into play!

Reviews will provide a much better depiction of the atomizer under real use over a company that has no clue what they are looking at!


SGS marking on Hcigar box
SGS marking on Hcigar box


1:1 Clones: Not always!

Clones often have little variations over their authentic counterpart. These can be different screw sizes, diameter, drip tips…

A 1:1 clone should have the exact same specifications as the original. This means that all parts should be interchangeable with an authentic.

Sadly, this does not always apply to the metal used or tolerances of certain pieces! This is why in my opinion the metal used is more important!

If we have the option between 1:1 304SS and not 1:1 316SS, I would choose the 1:1 version.


Be patient!

If a clone of the device was just released, chances are more will pop up with better machining or tighter tolerances. This can be rewarding as sometimes a clone can be extremely close to the authentic (Ex: Tobecco Kayfun V4)!


That covers the basics that I use when purchasing a clone. Hopefully you found this useful!

If you think I forgot something, want add to this, or just say thanks, don’t be shy and leave a comment down below!


Coil resistance does not affect battery life on regulated mods, power does!

Quick post to clear some misconceptions.

As we have seen from the previous article “Regulated Mods“, the Input Side is completely unaffected by the resistance of the coil. This basically means that if the power setting remains unchanged, battery life will not be affected by the coil resistance. This is because the power signal is converted in the Output Side to match the resitance of the coil. The Input side remains unchanged.


We will use the same example as the previous article to demonstrate this: A DNA40 configured for 20W. The example is a bit redundant, but simply shows that no matter what coil is installed on the mod, the power input remains the same.
Input Side:
From our previous article, we concluded that at 20W the DNA40 will actually need to pull 21.28W from the battery, with a current draw between 5.07A and 6.86A depending on the voltage coming from the battery.
Output Side:
The controller has grabbed 21.28W from the battery, and now wants to send 20W to the coil.
If our device has a 0.2 Ohm coil,the controller will send:
Current = √ (20/0.2) = 10A
Voltage = √ (20*0.2) = 4V
If our device has a 1 Ohm coil,the controller will send:
Current = √ (20/1) = 4.47A
Voltage = √ (20*1) = 4.47V
If our device has a 2 Ohm coil,the controller will send:
Current = √ (20/2) = 3.16A
Voltage = √ (20*2) = 6.3V
If our device has a 3 Ohm coil,the controller will send:
Current = √ (20/3) = 2.58A
Voltage = √ (20*3) = 7.74V
As you can see, coil resistance played no role on the input side. Only the output side was adjusted to provide the power to the coil.

Regulated mods

What is a regulated mod?

A regulated mod in the vaping world is a device that has a (micro-)controller sitting between the battery and the atomizer. Its purpose is to provide a stable power signal to the atomizer regardless of the battery charge. By providing a stable power signal, vape quality can remain constant.

If no controller is present between the battery and the atomizer (i.e. an unregulated mod or a mechanical mod), the battery power is directly transferred to the coil. As the battery sags and loses its charge, so is the power transferred to the atomizer. This affects vape quality, as the power is slowly reduced after each use of the vaporizer.

Besides providing a stable source of power, a regulated mod can also offer multiple benefits compared to an unregulated/mechanical mod. For example:

  • Power selection : The user can control the amount of power transferred to the atomizer
  • Voltage selection: The user can control the voltage transferred to the atomizer
  • Short-Circuit Protection: Should a short circuit occur, the controller can “break” the connection to the battery, preventing it from venting or exploding.
  • Battery charging.
  • Efficient use of battery: In some scenarios, a battery in a regulated mod can last longer than in a mechanical mod.
  • Many more…

As technology advances, more features are added to regulated mods. Newer technologies allow us to upgrade, customize and configure the controllers of our device (examples: the Evolv DNA200 and Yihi SX 350Jv2 chips)

Now that we have a basic top-level understanding of what a regulated mod is, we can explain how it works.


How does it work?

A regulated mod receives power from the battery and transfers it to the atomizer. This can be broken down into 2 steps: Input Side and Output Side.

The Input Side will pull the power from the battery to the controller, and the Output Side will push the power from the controller to the atomizer. This transfer is done using a DC-DC converter located on the controller.

Controller Efficiency will determine how much power will be lost in that transfer.

Controller Specifications will determine if the requested power can actually be transferred to the atomizer.

We will look at each of these elements and try our best to explain them.




Controller Efficiency

Controller efficiency determines how much power will be lost when transferred from the battery to the atomizer. Lost power will usually be converted to heat, which will increase the temperature of the controller. Heat reduces the service life of any electronics!

As efficiency increases, power loss decreases. This leads to less power pulled from the battery and a cooler controller.

It is important to note that the efficiency percentage is an average over the power range of the controller. As power goes up, efficiency goes down.


Efficiency of popular controllers:

BoardEfficiency (%)
Evolv DNA4094
Evolv DNA20097
Yihi SX350J (V1&V2)93
Yihi SX35092


Knowing the efficiency of our controller, we can calculate how much power will actually be pulled from our battery. We simply multiply the power requirement by 100 and divide it by the controller efficiency. Power requirement is the wattage set to be transferred to the atomizer.

Power Pulled From Battery = Power Requirement * 100/ Controller Efficiency


Let’s use a DNA40 configured for 20W. 
The DNA40 has an efficiency of 94%, therefore the power requirement would be:
Power = 20 * 100/94 = 21.28  Watts.
The DNA40 controller will actually pull 21.28W from out battery to provide the atomizer with 20W.


Input Side

The Input Side is where the controller pulls power from the battery.

Ohm’s law states:

Power = Voltage * Current


  • Power is the wattage that the controller wants to pull from the battery.
  • Voltage is provided by the battery and cannot be controlled (besides charging the battery). A Lithium Ion battery will usually provide between 2.5 and 4.2V, with a nominal cell voltage of approximately 3.7V (average voltage output). The controllers minimum input voltage will determine the lowest voltage it will accept before considering the battery too weak or empty.
  • Current is the amperage that will be drawn from the battery to obtain the power required. To calculate the current draw, we simply move Voltage from Ohm’s Law from the right of the equation to the left. This give us:

    Current = Power/Voltage


Once we have our power requirement, we can move onto current draw. Since we cannot control the voltage that the battery will provide, we will work with 3 values: minimum voltage, maximum voltage and nominal voltage.

  • The minimum voltage is set by the controller. If at any point during the power transfer from the battery that voltage is reached, the controller will consider the battery too weak to perform its duties and act accordingly (lower the power or simply stop the transfer). This value will vary from 2.8V to 3.3V depending on the controller.
  • The maximum voltage is that of a fully charged battery. This voltage is approximately 4.2V
  • The nominal voltage is the average voltage that will be provided by the cell. For Lithium-Ion batteries, that value is 3.7V.


Using Ohm’s law, we have determined earlier that:

Current = Power/Voltage

All we have to do is replace Power in “Current = Power/Voltage” with the right side of our power equation above for controller efficiency: Power = (Power set) * 100/ (Controller Efficiency).

We finally get:

Current = (Power set * 100/ Controller Efficiency) / Voltage


Since we are using 3 different voltages, we will have 3 different current values for the Amps drawn from the battery. This will provide us with a range of current that can be pulled from the battery at the requested power level.



Always use the minimum voltage with the above formula when pairing a battery with a regulated mod. Using the minimum voltage will ensure you are never stressing your battery outside of its specifications!


Continuing with our example of a DNA40 configured for 20W:
The DNA40’s minimum input voltage on their datasheet is 3.1V. If at any point during the power transfer the battery reaches that voltage, the DNA40 will display a “Weak Power” message on screen and reduce the output power.
We get the following equations for the current draw:

At 4.2V (maximum voltage):

Current = [(Power set) * 100/ (Controller Efficiency)] / Voltage = [20*100/94]/4.2 = 21.28/4.2 = 5.067 Amps

At 3.7V (nominal voltage):

Current = [(Power set) * 100/ (Controller Efficiency)] / Voltage = [20*100/94]/3.7 = 21.28/3.7 = 5.75 Amps

At 3.1V (minimum voltage):

Current = [(Power set) * 100/ (Controller Efficiency)] / Voltage = [20*100/94]/3.1 = 21.28/3.1 = 6.86 Amps

From this, we can conclude that at 20W, the DNA40 will actually need to pull 21.28W from the battery, with a current draw between 5.07A and 6.86A


Following our formulas, we get the following maximum amp draw for our 4 popular mods according to their datasheets:

ControllerMin Voltage (V)Max Wattage (W)Efficiency (%)Max Amp Draw (A)
Evolv DNA40
Evolv DNA200
Yihi SX-350
Yihi SX-350J
Yihi SX-350J V2


Always use the minimum voltage with the above formula when pairing a battery with a regulated mod. Using the minimum voltage will ensure you are never stressing your battery outside of its specifications!


Now that we know the max amperage that will be drained from our battery for the Input Side, we need to understand how the controller will push that power to our atomizer coil.



Output Side

The Output Side consists of transferring the power from the controller to the atomizer coil.

This differs from the Input Side because in this power transfer, the coils resistance must be taken into account. That resistance will impact how that power will be transferred to the coil by varying the voltage and the current (amperage) sent.

Ohm’s law states:

Current = √ (Power/Resistance)


Voltage = √ (Power*Resistance)


We can calculate the resulting values using Ohm’s Law by simply knowing 2 constant values. In our case, Power and Resistance (we will ignore temperature control in this post):

  • Power is the power that the controller has pulled from the battery (set by the user).
  • Resistance is the kanthal coil resistance, which does not vary once installed (in reality it does vary by an extremely small amount that most controllers cannot detect).



Continuing with our previous example of a DNA40 at 20W, we’ll assume a 1.2 Ohm coil is installed on the atomizer.

To push 20W with a 1.2 Ohm coil we would need:

Current = √ (20/1.2) = 4.08A

Voltage = √ (20*1.2) = 4.90V

Therefore our controller will transfer 4.9V with 4.08A to the coil to provide it with 20W of power.



Controller Specifications

Every controller has output specifications for Voltage, Power, Amperage and Resistance. These specifications will determine if the controller can power the coil at the desired wattage.

Many controllers claim to provide a high wattage that can only be achieved using a coil resistance range much smaller than advertised!

Ohm’s law states:

Power = Voltage2/Resistance


Resistance = Voltage2/Power


With these 2 formulas, by knowing the maximum output voltage and power of our controller, we can calculate the maximum power that can be delivered to a specific coil and the range of resistances that can actually use all the power.

There are very few devices that can provide their full output power to the complete range of supported resistances. One of the few devices capable of doing this is the DNA40 by Evolv.



The Pioneer4You IPV D2 has the following output specifications:

  • Output Voltage Range: 3.6-7V
  • Output Power Range: 7-75W
  • Output Current Range: 1-25A
  • Atomizer Resistance range: 0.2-3.0 Ohms

By using the maximum voltage of the controller (7V), we can find the maximum power that can be delivered to a coil:

  • A 3.0 Ohm coil would have a maximum power of: 72/3.0 = 16.33W
  • A 2.0 Ohm coil: 72/2.0 = 24.5W
  • A 1.0 Ohm coil: 72/1.0 = 49W

By using the maximum voltage of the controller (7V), we can find the highest resistance than can be powered at 75W:

  • 72/75 = 0.65 Ohms

In order to be able to use the full power of the IPV D2, we would have to use coils with a resistance lower than 0.65 Ohm but higher than 0.2 Ohm (from the IPV D2 coil resistance specifications).



DC-DC Converters

DC(Direct Current)-DC Converters allow a controller to provide an output voltage different from the input voltage. This type of converter is the main element that allows a regulated mod to perform its duties. We will not discuss them in detail but simply explain their purpose and the types of converters available.

3 types of converters are found in regulated devices for vaping:

  • Boost converter

This type of converter will transform an input voltage to an equal or greater output voltage.

The controller can not provide a voltage lower than the one provided by the battery. Many devices use this type of controller since it is cheaper to manufacture, imposing a minimum voltage that can force a higher wattage than requested/displayed on screen.

Sample devices that use this type of controller: Evolv DNA20/DNA30, Pioneer4You IPV 1/2/Mini/Mini2/D2(v1/2)


  • Buck converter

This type of converter will transform an input voltage to an equal or lower output voltage.

The controller cannot provide a voltage higher than the one provided by the battery. This type of controller is usually found on devices using multiple batteries in series, which multiplies the voltage provided on the Input Side by the number of batteries.

Sample devices that use this type of controller: Evolv DNA200, Sigelei 150/150TC, SnowWolf 200W


  • Buck-Boost converter

This type of controller will allow an output voltage greater or smaller than the input voltage.

It is a Boost and a Buck converter mixed into one. This converter is usually more complex and costly to manufacture than the other two.

Sample devices that use this type of controller: Evolv DNA40, Yihi SX350/J/v2



This completes our brief overview of what a regulated mod is and how it works. Hopefully you have found this information useful.

If you have any comment or find any mistakes, do not hesitate to leave a reply!

We would like to thank Brandon from Evolv for baring with my billion questions, the friendly Reddit ECR community for all the knowledge sharing, and Mooch for doing Gods work and testing the safety of the batteries we use in our mods!